Ostroh Gilotiny is, with almost 250 routes on 22 rocks, the largest sector of the left bank of the Elbe Valley. The biggest include Sicilská stěna, Indiánka, Gilotina, Pivní kámen, Smolař, Monolit and Otec. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2 to 10+/11-.
Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 10. Ostroh Gilotiny has 247 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 10+/11-. Explore its 22 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Textile belay, Sport Climbing.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Sicilská stěna Indiánka Gilotina Pivní kámen Smolař Monolit Otec Sierra madre Indián Pivní tácek Blueberry hill Totem Mariáš Tee pee Postýlka Filuta Gargamel Klikař Shrek Íšek Panenka Qac
6-
O ha le
Access from the upper terrace and left to the balcony to the 1st BH. Up the slabby pyrite… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Cesta pokojného bojovníka
To the right of the corner along the edge and wall over 4 BH diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Strix
Through the corner in the middle of the upper wall over 2 BH diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Goyathlay
Together with the Oha path below the overhang. Directly over it and the edge (BH) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Speedy Gonzales
From the 6th BH of the "Iron Nut" path, diagonally left up the overhanging wall across 6… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Entre dos tierras
Start via the route "Path of the Iron Nut" and from the 4th BH directly up the wall … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Odvedu vás do Siera Madre
From the lowest point of the wall along the blunt edge over 4 BH and a slabby wall into a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Cesta železného oře
To the right of the "Geronimo Trail" path, up the wall directly and then diagonally right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Stará cesta
From the North via the corner crack between the tower and the massif over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Geronimova stezka
From the ledge at the start of the "Old Route" to Indiánka, right up the corner crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Český vrabec
Like Vultures of Mexico, up the crack (BH) to the balcony and right up the wall along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Supové Mexika
From the ledge at the start of the "Old Route" to Indiánka, right up the falcon-like… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Bílý otec
Left of the "Old Route" up the wall over 7 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Dobré trávy
From the balcony to the right of the "Marine Infantry Route", directly over 4 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Topič Proužek na parníku hodil šavli do pytlíku
Along the Marine Infantry route to the ledge above the 1st K at the start of the traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Tropická hrana
Like the "Marine Infantry Route" about 8m up to the overhang. Traverse left to the N edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7/7+
Zelený Raoul
Left of the "Marine Infantry Route" up the wall over 5 BH to the 2nd K of the "Tropical… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Existenční vzpoura
About 5m along the "Marine Infantry" and traverse left into the middle of the valley wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Cesta námořní pěchoty
Up the crack and corner in the NW wall to the 1st K. Up the crack to its end and traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Amok
At the right valley edge, a short crack and along the edge over K to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Existenční vzpoura direkt
Through the middle of the valley wall over K to the 1st K of the "Existential Rebellion"… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Pochybná existence
In the right part of the valley wall over 8 BH and K to the 3rd K of "Existential… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Pozor schod
In the left part of the valley wall, over the overhang via 3 BH into the "Abraxas" route… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Veřejný nepřítel
From the 1st BH of the "Tooth of Time" route, right up the wall and edge over 6 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Vyšší princip
From the start of the "Abraxas" route, up the wall over 3 BH to the 1st K of the "Return… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Návrat k romantice
Up the crack in the SE wall to the ledge and traverse right to the 1st K. Diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Zub času
Right in the SE wall over 2 BH to the 1st K of the "Abraxas" route and over 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Abraxas
From the fore-rock in the SE wall, traverse right (BH) to the 1st K and diagonally right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Tee pee
In the SE wall, a large corner under the overhang (K). Under the overhang, traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Suchý výkon
Right of the Medvědí hlava (Bear's Head) route onto the terrace and right along a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2