Ostroh Gilotiny is, with almost 250 routes on 22 rocks, the largest sector of the left bank of the Elbe Valley. The biggest include Sicilská stěna, Indiánka, Gilotina, Pivní kámen, Smolař, Monolit and Otec. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2 to 10+/11-.
Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 10. Ostroh Gilotiny has 247 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 10+/11-. Explore its 22 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Textile belay, Sport Climbing.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Sicilská stěna Indiánka Gilotina Pivní kámen Smolař Monolit Otec Sierra madre Indián Pivní tácek Blueberry hill Totem Mariáš Tee pee Postýlka Filuta Gargamel Klikař Shrek Íšek Panenka Qac
7/7+
Noční můra
To the right of the "Vendetta" route, over BH and 3 rings to the ledge (BH). Continue up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Corleone
To the right of the "Vendeta" route, over the hourglass and 4 BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Bezzubý Yuchen
To the left of the "Vendetta" crack, up the overhanging wall over 6 BH to the rappelling… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Cosa Nostra
Via the "Vendetta" route 2 m up and left to the ring. Along the edge and up the wall (3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Vendetta
In the right part of the wall, along the crack and through the fissure to its end.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
10+/11-
El Bombone
From the 4th BH of the "Al Capone" route, go up and right into the hole (BH) and further… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
La Bomba
From the 4th BH of the "Dangerous Ascent" route, go left and up the wall over 3 BH into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Nebezpečné stoupání - Varianta
From the 7th BH, diagonally right almost to the 6th BH of "Toothless Yuchen" and back to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Nebezpečné stoupání
Through the overhanging crack and up the wall over 6 BH to the 7th BH. From there, go up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Al Capone
To the right of "Italian Capriccio" up the wall over 4 BH and from the left along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Bestseller
From the block left of "Italian Capriccio" up the overhanging wall and along the crack (3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Zbytečná smrt
From the 2nd ring of the "Bestseller" path, directly through the crack and right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10-/10
Smrt s celerem
Via the "Celery" path to the 3rd ring of the "Bestseller" path and right into the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Italské capriccio
Through the chimney at the base of the wall to the pinnacle, from there into a large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
S celerem
To the right of the start of the "Stormy Etna" path up the wall below the overhang.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Bouřlivá Etna
Between Indian and Sicilian wall through the chimney to the balcony and E wall over 2 K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
9/9+
Celer
From the first ring of the path "With celery" directly via BH to the 3rd ring of the path… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Lauschgift
Along the "With Celery" path under the overhang, briefly right and directly over it (1st… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Les vepres siciliennes
In the corner between Indian and Sicilian wall through the chimney over the balcony… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Calzone
In the corner between Indian and Sicilian wall from the balcony to the left of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Dýmka míru
Along the "Fiery Water" path over 3 BH to the ramp, along it left to the left edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Boží protekce
In the E wall to the right of the "Fiery Water" path, up the wall over 6 BH directly to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Ohnivá voda
E wall over 3 BH and right to the edge. Along it (3 K) to the ramp. Arbitrarily to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Psí vojáci
Along the valley edge over 5 BH to the 3rd K of the "Last Shot" path. Along it to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Poslední výstřel
To the left of the NE edge through a crack to the pulpit and up the valley wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Bledá tvář
Right from the valley through the corner to the balcony (1st BH). Traverse left and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Varianta „Posledního výstřelu“
Through the circle directly to the 1st K of "The Last Shot". Through it to the 2nd K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
El Camino del Rey
To the right of the "Cao News" path up the wall over 5 BH to the belay. BH of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Cao News
In the right part of the terrace along the crack (1st BH) and up the wall to the 2nd BH.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Existence
To the right of the El Camino del Rey path along the blunt edge (1st BH), from the right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3