Ostroh Gilotiny is, with almost 250 routes on 22 rocks, the largest sector of the left bank of the Elbe Valley. The biggest include Sicilská stěna, Indiánka, Gilotina, Pivní kámen, Smolař, Monolit and Otec. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2 to 10+/11-.
Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 10. Ostroh Gilotiny has 247 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 10+/11-. Explore its 22 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Textile belay, Sport Climbing.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Sicilská stěna Indiánka Gilotina Pivní kámen Smolař Monolit Otec Sierra madre Indián Pivní tácek Blueberry hill Totem Mariáš Tee pee Postýlka Filuta Gargamel Klikař Shrek Íšek Panenka Qac
3
Nealko aneb s čistou hlavou
Left in the W wall via holes to the summit and right to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Borůvková párty
Along the valley (N) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Fikanej durštic
Plateau sides via a rise and a slabby wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mrdup
Left of the route "Fikanej durštic" up a small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Modrá je lepší
From SE over the overhang into the gully, through it and up the sloping wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang
2+
Jižní cesta
From S along the edge to the foresummit, descend and right up the sloping wall along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kdo chce kam...
From the block on the N side diagonally left via an overhanging wall to the 1st BH. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Šmoulí svět
From W to a overgrown ledge, diagonally left up the wall along the depression (K), higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Zlý čaroděj
Right of the Smurf World route, up the wall to the ledge (K above it) and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Taťka Šmoula
Left of the overhang of the South Route, up the center of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Spodek
Right up the wall to K and left or right (VIIc) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7/7+
Král
In the left part of the wall (K) above sea level. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Svršek
Up the center of the wall (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Jedem středem
Up the center of the valley wall along the crack and higher up the wall to the abseiling… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Zelená sedma
In the left part of the valley wall via BH and diagonally right to the abseiling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Černý Petr
Left of the path "Green Seven" along the edge and a small wall (possibility to use BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Betl
In the right part of the valley (E) wall via 2 BH to the abseiling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Stará cesta
On the left in the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Ještě tam nejsem
SE couloir and edge via BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Mafiánské Tanga
In the very right part of the wall, up the slab wall (3 BH) and further left to the 1st… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Mafiánské tango
From the 3rd BH of the "Mafia Men" route, directly up the pyritic wall over 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Nahoru po schodišti dolů band
To the left in the North face, through the corner via BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
6
Super kvak
To the left of the "Up the stairs..." route, along the edge via BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
7+/8-
Green Slimer
To the right of the "Mafia" route, along the blunt edge and higher up the overhanging… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Noční můra
To the right of the "Vendetta" route, over BH and 3 rings to the ledge (BH). Continue up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Mafiáni
Through the corner crack, later via the gully running to the right over 5 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1