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Climbing at Broumov Walls

1536 routes
34 areas
1–10 grades

The Broumov Walls are a sandstone ridge in the Broumov region near the Polish border, running from south-east to north-west between Hlavňov, Slavný and Božanov within the Broumovsko PLA. The highest point is Božanovský Špičák (773 m), and there are striking cliffs and towers below Koruna (769 m) and around Hvězda.

The area is less well known and quieter than nearby Adršpach, and there is no entrance fee. Alongside traditional sandstone climbing with sparse rings and textile protection there are also some sportier routes. Sandstone rules apply – no chalk or metal gear, dry rock only; check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the Broumovsko PLA administration.

Part of East Bohemia, Broumov Walls has 1536 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 34 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Laid wall.

Rules

  • Climb only on designated rocks – closed rocks are marked with prohibition signs.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only).
  • Camping only at campsites.

National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Slavenské skály - Třešňová rokle 200 routes Hvězda - Mezi Hvězdou a Kovářovou roklí 171 routes Hvězda - Kovářova rokle, pravá strana 152 routes Slavenské skály - Zaječí rokle 139 routes Za Machovským křížem - Suchý vrch 88 routes Velká plošina Stěn - Velká kupa 85 routes Hvězda - Kovářova rokle, levá strana 61 routes Hvězda - Okolí Pánovy cesty 49 routes Slavenské skály - Za Beránkem 46 routes Velká plošina Stěn - Božanovský špičák 45 routes V Horách - Spáleniště 44 routes Hvězda - Okolí Supího hnízda 37 routes V Horách - U Junácké vyhlídky 37 routes V Horách - Barklovy rokle 35 routes Hvězda - Hřeben od Strážné hory ke Hvězdě 35 routes Velká plošina Stěn - Koruna 32 routes V Horách - Mydlářské kameny 32 routes Slavenské skály - U Dobytčí stezky 31 routes Za Machovským křížem - Lopota 26 routes V Horách - U Vévody 23 routes Slavenské skály - Za Vyhlídkou 22 routes Velká plošina Stěn - U Jitřenky 22 routes V Horách - U Turka 21 routes V Horách - Pod Signálem 16 routes Velká plošina Stěn - Brusinková rokle 14 routes Slavenské skály - Nad rozcestím 13 routes Slavenské skály - Nad vodárnou 12 routes Hvězda - Severní rokle 11 routes Velká plošina Stěn - Malá kupa 10 routes Za Machovským křížem - Nad Studenou 9 routes Velká plošina Stěn - Hájek 8 routes Hvězda - Nad Pískovou roklí 5 routes Velká plošina Stěn - Malý Špičák 3 routes Velká plošina Stěn - Zelený hájek 2 routes
2
Babulík
Through the NE corner crack to the block, over the overflow and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Brána do pekel
The ascent starts from the SE side on the balcony under the left pillar. Up the wide… Rock Climbing
9
Babulík
Through the center of the SW wall, through the crack (circle) and higher up the crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Brána do pekel
Up the SW corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Brána do pekel
The ascent is in the SE corner. Up the right corner crack (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Brána do pekel
To the left of the corner in the SE face, up the crack into the cave. Directly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
10
El diablo rojo
Up the chimney between Brána do pekel (Gate to Hell) and El Diablo rojo to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Brána do pekel
To the right of the start of the Černá knížka (Black Book) route, up a narrow crack to a… Rock Climbing
6
Nagano
In the middle of the NE face (near the block), up the crack and then left up the wall to… Rock Climbing
7
Nagano
In the left part of the NE face, above the path, up the prominent chimney under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Nagano
In the right part of the NE face, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Nagano
On the left edge of the valley (SE) face, up the overhanging corner crack (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Nagano
In the right corner of the SE face, up the narrow crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Nagano
To the right of the Špirlice route, up the crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Vánoční hvězda
Up the crack to the right of the Zvonkohra (Carillon) route to its 2nd ring. Rock Climbing
4
Světýlko
From the NE, up the wall to the edge and along it to the highest point. Rock Climbing
3
Vánoční hvězda
From the ledge on the SW face, up the chimney from Světýlka (Little Light) to the sub… Rock Climbing
6-
Vánoční hvězda
From the highest point of the slope in the gorge on the NE side of the tower, up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Vánoční hvězda
From the NW by traversing the massifs and via the Carnivorous Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Vánoční hvězda
In the middle of the SW face, up the crack and chimney to the platform, then up the wall… Rock Climbing
6-
Vánoční hvězda
In the right part of the SW face via a crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vánoční hvězda
From the NE gorge, ascend the crack under the overhang to the hourglass. Take the left… Rock Climbing
6-
Vánoční hvězda
From the west, use opposition against the massif, traverse right into the crack, follow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vánoční hvězda
From the SW, directly up the crack to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Malý kozy
Follow the Mustr route to the ledge and up the wall along the southern edge (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Malý kozy
The ascent starts on the NE side. Overhang from the block to the ledge and then into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Malý kozy
At the eastern corner via a crack in the flake and up the wall to the 1st ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vánoční hvězda
Follow the Ice Man route under the overhang. Take the right crack (1st ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Vánoční hvězda
The ascent starts to the left of the Ice Man route. Up the wall to the 1st ring, left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Malý kozy
Follow the Mustr route for about three meters and traverse right to the edge. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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